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Trouble With Rust-Oleum Industrial Enamel

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CJ Winslow

Guest
I am having some trouble with Rust-Oleum industial enamel. I am painting cast iron that has been sand blasted and cleaned with lacquer thinner. I followed the directions and painted in low humidity and about 60 degrees. I primed several coats of primer and about 2-3 coats of green within an hour. I ended up with paint that had an orange peel look and did not harden well. On some other parts I ended up with primer that has been sitting 10+ days and has not hardended up. I can still scratch it with my finger nail. I have no idea what the problem here is. Any help would be great. I was thinking of setting the parts out on the driveway in the heat to try to bake that paint hard. I have had good luck with basic rust-oleum paint and was hoping that the industrial enamel would be better than the standard rust-oleum.

- CJ
 

Harry

Administrator
Staff member
You probably already know this, but it bears mentioning.

Do all spraying within one hour or after 48 hours when using Rustoleum.

Also, I'd go with the 48 hour rule between primer and final color.

I've often wanted a small oven available for baking paint jobs.
 
S

Sky

Guest
Myself, i have always had trouble with Rust oleum. in my experience, it never hardens and always easy to scratch, and if gas gets on that stuff, it'l peel like crazy. i have 1 or 2 things painted with rust oleum, that was from a year or 2 ago and the stuff is still easy as ever to scratch, i prepaired and primed the 2 items to that i have painted too. and very seldom do i use Krylon but krylon seems to be a better paint then rust oleum, krylon does somewhat harden in about 2 weeks to 3. but still is not recomended for painting gas tanks, it aswell, will peel if gas touches it but is good for painting engines and such if thats the only paint you have, Dupli color is good stuff and will harden in about 2 weeks but still will peel if gas touches it. dupli color dry's thin though, inless you continue to give it coat after coat, i stop after 3.
NOW, if you REALLY want some RILLY GOOD paint, go to tractor supply or a place that supply's this kind of paint and buy eaither spray cans or a gallon of that Tractor & implement paint, on the front of the can it will have the letters, BPS, best paint sold, in wich ever color you prefer. THAT, is the best paint i have ever used and is practically flawless in my opinion, that stuff is good to go in a weeks time of fully drying, usually dry in 4 days but i wait 7 days just to be safe. :D with the surface of what ever your painting correctly prepaired, the paint job will last for years and possibly years to come! and get this! YES, this stuff actually resists gas! i have proof! i always buy this stuff and will continue too inless they stop making it wich i HOPE they will never do. :cool:
 

Tanner Remillard

Subscriber
Age
37
Last Subscription Date
02/05/2020
The only luck I have ever had with rustoleum is BAD. I even followed the directions and still got a perfect wrinkle job. I even brush painted one of my engines with rustoleum and it scratches off really easy. It will even come off of the flywheels onto my hands when I am turning it over to start it! :mad: Worthless to say the least!
 
C

Chris Curtis

Guest
I agree with Skyler on the Tractor Supply paint. It is pretty good stuff and the price is right, and if you really want a bullet proof finish then spend the extra $9.00 and get the little can of catylist hardener. This stuff when mixed properly will dry your paint job in hours instead of days, make it harder, shinyer and even more resistant to oil and gas. It is similer to the single stage enamal they used on cars before the new clear coat paints came out. One word of caution though- DO NOT use your wifes pyrex measuring cup to mix the paint as the catylist seems to etch glass making it impossible to get cleaned up and put away before she gets home- I learned the HARD way!
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
I once painted an associated engine with rustoleum, after a total rebuild. It looked perfect! It looked perfect until I put gas in the tank, about 2 months later. It didnt look perfect 5 minutes later! :eek: The gas stripped the paint off faster than paint remover! I use Krylon, or Dupont now.
Andrew :D .
 

Harvey Teal

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/22/2019
CJ, get some radiant heaters or heat lamps. If your paint has case hardened it may take a while to bake out all of the solvent.
 

Frank Y

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
04/16/2020
WOW. I cant believe what I am reading here. I must be the only one with really good results. I never had rustoleum orange peel or wash off with gas or come off onto my hands when rubbing after it was dry. I dont even have any problems with the paint chipping off when I tighten a bolt to it. I used rustoleum on 5 engines that I restored going back over 3 years and they still look as good as they did when I first started them. I wipe them down with gas on a rag to clean the oil off and then put them away. When I get them ready to show I wipe them down with gas on a rag to get off the dust. I guess Im just going to keep using Rustoleum because I know it works good with gas and I have had no problems. Im sorry to hear about everyone else's problems, and I dont know what causes them.

Frank Y
 

Rudy

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
It seems that most of the off the shelf paints do not dry properly or do not stand up. The other day i went to my sign-painter buddys place. He letters and paints the names on my engines. He uses a paint called 1-SHOT. this paint has 4 times the paint pigment that regular paint has and it only takes one coat to get really great coverage.It also does not fade or peel. You can brush or spray it on.It costs around $40.00 a quart. I painted one of my engines with it, and it lives up to its name. it dries in one day.for more info look on their website 1shot.com.
 

Harvey Teal

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/22/2019
Rustoleum makes several types of paint.On the consumer/homeowner side, there are probably at least 6 products. On the industrial side, there are at least a dozen. It is important to select the right product for your application.
Your hardware store or auto parts store probably does not know how to advise you. Contact Rustoleum directly and they can suggest a product that works the way you want it to. CJ, you have two options: strip it down and repaint, or bake it on. Sorry.......or better yet...I'll take that sticky engine off your hands and save you the trouble.........
 

Ackman

Registered
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
03/09/2011
The only Rust-Oleum I've ever used, is the primer & I've had pretty good luck with it. I've use Krylon, on one engine & even after a few years, I still got paint residue on a rag, when wiping down the engine. A friend of mine, that is now deceased, was an avid IHC collector. He used MAUTZ Industrial on ALL his engines & tractors & swore by it! I went to the local MAUTZ dealer & they matched the colors I needed for a couple engines & I am VERY happy with results & the price is right...MUCH cheaper than automotive paint & it lays real nice. I've also found that the best thing to use for wiping down engines, is SIMPLE GREEN. It's biodgradable & comes in spray bottles & wipes & does a FANTASTIC job taking off oil & grease, plus it doesn't smell bad, either! :D
 
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CJ Winslow

Guest
You guys got my wheels going on baking the paint on. I took my head which had primer that had not hardened up and put it in the oven at 170 degrees which is the lowest setting short of having the door open a crack. After three hours the paint was sticky again to the touch. After cooling it will still scratch with the finger nail. I spent some time and energy with bondo on the water hopper. Any idea how to get the paint off without damaging the body filler or am I bound to start from scratch with the paint and filler?

- CJ
 

BobRR

Registered
CJ Im not sure what you have going on but I think your not waiting till all the thinner has dryed?(gets rid of moistur and the last of the thinner rustoleum is a enamel) What I do is wipe down wait a while then heat the part to 80-100F then prime let dry for a 1hr(Ive never had a problem with the primer drying in more then a HR.) then apply 3-4 coats of finnal color@70F room temp.within 1hr. and leave alone!(dont even think about recoating after that hr! I have had problems even after 48 with color) Ive used rustolem for many yrs and some times I would like to XX## XXCC%The co. but MOST of the time it comes out good and holds up well!(you can also get hardner for it too) I do like the BPS since I have found it!It is durable and with a brush lays down real nice(looks like it was sprayed on)Any more if BPS has a color I want thats what I use but next to that its still Rustoleum.BobRR
 

Dick Webber

Subscriber
Age
82
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
I'm a retired PPG and Sherwin Williams auto paint jobber, and I have these thoughts after 25 years in the business:

1. Never wipe down with lacquer thinner. Use wax and grease remover, lots of it, one wet rag, one dry to wipe it up before it dries. Lacquer thinner dries too quick and will not float the contaminants off the surface as well.

2. 95% of paint problems are caused by too much too quick. Often alkyd enamels will skin over on top of the surface before it is dry underneath. Especially true in high temps or humidity conditions or if spraying in wind or sun. Weeks later this will cause wrinkling, or at best a soft finish. Trapped solvents underneath are trying to get out.

3. The cheaper the paint the greater the likelihood itwill have poor color hold outin the sun. Ultraviolet screeners are expensive ingredients. Generally speaking you get what you pay for.

4. Use hardeners when you can. You get a cure all the way through, and resistance to gas is greater.

5. Use compatible products. Get your paint from the same place you get your primer. Match reducers to weather conditions. Ask questions and follow directions.

6. Most products using a catalyst do not function well when applied at 60 degrees or less.

Good luck

Dick
 

John Newman Jr.

Subscriber
Age
64
Last Subscription Date
12/23/2019
The place I used to work at used RustOleum "Hard Hat" industrial spray to mark the ends of the raw material (Aluminum) to indicate if they were going to be Right Hand or Left Hand parts (aircraft have a lot of nearly identical parts except the R/H & L/H parts will be mirror image to each other) This material got painted with no prep, over rough sawn and frequently dirty / oily raw metal - no primer. I was always amazed that it held up as well as it did with cutting fluid pouring on it and being banged around while loading these parts (the ones I ran were 12" wide. 10" high & 14' -yes feet- long and there was no real need to be careful when loading them for the first cuts) I used this paint to give a tool box a new look and with good prep it turned out very nice. THis is one tough paint!
 

Larry Rusch

Registered
I had a problem with Rustoleum several years ago when I used it on a brand new Bilco door. It didn't spread easily and dried very wrinkly. The instructions on the can specifically said "do not thin". When I pursued this with the company they told me legal restrictions required the "do not thin" statement, and that they used less vehicle/solvent in the formulation to satisfy environmental requirements of the state I lived in. When I pointed out that the instructions on the same paint in a smaller can (1/2 pint vs 1 qt) recommended thinning if necessary, they informed me that the paint was identical but the rules change depending on the size of the container. When I asked if it was ok to thin the paint in the 1 qt can they said they could not recommend it from a legal standpoint. Needless to say, I thinned the paint and it worked fine the second time around, but I had a heck of a time removing the previous wrinkled paint job.
 

BDMelon

Registered
Age
57
Last Subscription Date
12/29/2008
man this sounds like most of you have had train wrecks with this paint,

i have had 1 complete #$&@ up with paint thats because i did not read complete , the whole engine looked like a prune , next morning
I have had people ask me year after year what i do to keep on paint
an i would not tell anyone, but after reading all this. i will share, you guys don't laugh, the engine getshot steam clean, then dried off, then i us brake clean (de-nature achol) very good rub down, then dry , heat up blocks & parts to 75 to 80 degs with moisture at 65 percent, and here it the kicker
It ace hardware paint(no kidding) with a very fine horse hair brush , when done it looks like it came form factory , not fancy like some i have seen, but real good, let dry for 1 week don't screw with it, kept heat & moisture same

i turn most of engine over with flywheels, they still look good after 5 years, but then the paint does just what i want it to do, fade just like the factory paint does, after 5 years they look like origional , it worksfor me, take it for what its worth. bd melon
 

Jeff Smith

Registered
Last Subscription Date
08/05/2018
Re: Trouble With Rust-Oleum Switch to B.P.S.

Skylar King said:
Myself, i have always had trouble with Rust oleum. in my experience, it never hardens and always easy to scratch, and if gas gets on that stuff, it'l peel like crazy. i have 1 or 2 things painted with rust oleum, that was from a year or 2 ago and the stuff is still easy as ever to scratch, i prepaired and primed the 2 items to that i have painted too. and very seldom do i use Krylon but krylon seems to be a better paint then rust oleum, krylon does somewhat harden in about 2 weeks to 3. but still is not recomended for painting gas tanks, it aswell, will peel if gas touches it but is good for painting engines and such if thats the only paint you have, Dupli color is good stuff and will harden in about 2 weeks but still will peel if gas touches it. dupli color dry's thin though, inless you continue to give it coat after coat, i stop after 3.
NOW, if you REALLY want some RILLY GOOD paint, go to tractor supply or a place that supply's this kind of paint and buy eaither spray cans or a gallon of that Tractor & implement paint, on the front of the can it will have the letters, BPS, best paint sold, in wich ever color you prefer. THAT, is the best paint i have ever used and is practically flawless in my opinion, that stuff is good to go in a weeks time of fully drying, usually dry in 4 days but i wait 7 days just to be safe. :D with the surface of what ever your painting correctly prepaired, the paint job will last for years and possibly years to come! and get this! YES, this stuff actually resists gas! i have proof! i always buy this stuff and will continue too inless they stop making it wich i HOPE they will never do. :cool:

Skylar,

I took your advice because I am sick of Rusteolum products including their Hard Hat products, and went to Tractor Supply and purchased B.P.S. red primer, gloss black, ford red, Oliver green and dark blue. I have only gotten as far as the primer, and it is on a sliding board and not an engine, but I am impressed with the primer thus far. I am waiting to paint the slide because they have been out of the hardener for the last week or so. I am looking forward to getting the hardener and painting the slide and seeing how the paint holds up to the Florida sunshine and my two boys!!!

Thank you for your suggestion, and I will post my final results when completed.

Jeff Smith
 

JBoogie

Registered
Age
38
Last Subscription Date
11/12/2013
i think a lot of everyone's problems are either not letting the primer cure thuroughly and not skuffing it up before the final color is applied.

when i was young i learned to NEVER rush ANY paint job. "oh, all ya gotta do is SLAP a coat of paint on and... YOU HAVE THE WORST MESS EVER!" don t rush. i know it is exciting to see yur engine all purty but it takes a lot of patience.

i wash my parts in gasoline, let it dry, rinse residue off with CRC brake-kleen, skip the primer and paint EVERY part with as small a brush is practical. i used a half-inch brush on my last 2 engines. dont forget all brush strokes should be in the same direction to avoid brush lines. i ALWAYS allow AT LEAST 2 days between coats if im brush painting. dont forget to sand between coats! it really helps the next coat adhere, lets you guage how it is drying and helps make it shiney. if the paint is toooo sticky to sand, then wait another day or two.

does someone know if there is a hardener available for alkyd paint?
 

Ask The User

Email NOT Working
I've had good results with the heavy rust Rustoleum on cast. I prefer DuPont products though if I'm spraying and have also had positive experiences with PPG. You may want to be cautious about how much primer you are applying and making certain it is completely cured. JBoogie raises a good point about scuffing your primer as well. (Though I'm not sure I agree about skipping the primer as paint is formulated to stick to primer, not bare metal. But if it works for him, it's saving him money.) Are you quite certain that the paint was completely mixed? I had a bad experience with a Centari that I let sit quite a while and didn't get it mixed completely. Once I discovered the problem it was easily corrected. As for orange peel, I would look at surface prep or maybe reducer temperature specs(if you are reducing). Too hot or too cold will cause nightmares. You can spray straight reducer onto orange peel and bring it out, if the paint is still wet (I'm sure I'll catch all kind of grief on this one). I've done it but I'm not going to guarantee it will work for anyone else. It's a judgement call and luck. Just a trick a professional bodyman taught me several years ago. He wouldn't guarantee it either but it worked for me. That was on a case of too hot a spray booth for my mid-temp reducer. Temperature is important. Good Luck!
 

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