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Troy built - Separating armature from engine

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circuitman

Member
it doesn't go any where. used this way several times, only have a little grease to clean up.glad to hear ya gotta her off!:D:D:D:D

---------- Post added at 08:35:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30:30 PM ----------

the reason they are tight most likely have lock tite on them to keep them from backing out. it would get real ugly if one was to back out while it was running. i belive the BLUE lock tite is removal the red is not.
 
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deadshort

New member
I think it does.....

The armature has a hollow shaft that is open at one end - the end that the "push" bolt will go...The other is a tight pressure fit over the taper of the crank....

When grease is pumped into the hollow shaft as was indicated and fills it completely and, the push bolt is inserted and being tightened, pressure inside the hollow armature shaft increases higher and higher as the push bolt is screwed in....

At the point that the armature breaks loose, the high pressure in the hollow shaft (which is NOT hollow anymore as it is filled with grease UNDER PRESSURE) has to go someplace and that place is the end opening at the taper and that grease under pressure will "fly out all over the place.

---------- Post added at 08:42:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40:03 PM ----------
circuitman said:
it doesn't go any where. used this way several times, only have a little grease to clean up.glad to hear ya gotta her off!:D:D:D:D

---------- Post added at 08:35:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30:30 PM ----------

the reason they are tight most likely have lock tite on them to keep them from backing out. it would get real ugly if one was to back out while it was running. i belive the BLUE lock tite is removal the red is not.
Click to expand...
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Ok on the loc-tite as I had considered that...Well, my oil seal was delayed coming in and should be here Thursday or Friday...Hope it is just the oil seal and not the sump gasket because if it is the sump, that will put me back a few more days.

---------- Post added at 08:58:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:42:38 PM ----------

Would you suggest that I use the BLUE loc-tite should I even have to remove the bolts again?
 
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deadshort

New member
Just read the info on the blue and red loc-tite....Will be using the BLUE.

---------- Post added at 07:29:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22:12 AM ----------

Another quick question if I may?

While I have this apart, is there any "tried" substance, soap, etc. that I can use on the outside case of this unit to remove grime, oil, etc?

I figure that since I have it out that I could make the best use of my time and clean it up.
 
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circuitman

Member
purple power works good but has to be weakened because of it's corrosive nature.gunk makes a foaming engine cleaner, & there couple more out there.:D:D:D
 
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deadshort

New member
Thanks for the reply...

Yeah, I forgot about Gunk De-greaser...Will have to look around as I will have to scrub it by hand...Oil seal came in today so, have to run out and get some Loc-Tite and de-greaser tomorrow.....
 
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deadshort

New member
UPDATE -

Old oil seal was tough to get out which necessitated drilling a small hole into old seal. Then, I took a small right-angled pick and hooked it into the hole and "rocked" the seal out via the hole and then, in between the seal and the crank.

I cleaned up the seal seating surfaces and made sure the drain hole was clear. I lightly lubed the seal race (including the concealed spring behind the rubber) and tapped in with a piece of pvc pipe and made sure the outer surface of the seal was flush with the exterior. I then applied some "form-a-gasket" around the exterior race area "for good measure".

I took all the pieces of the generator case and used a Castrol product on each and it took ALL the grime off (still have the engine left to do tomorrow) with literally no effort at all. I took some thread locker and applied to the Allen bolts previously mentioned and screwed them in which mounted the rear generator cover back to the block.

I turned the generator up on it's end and slid the armature down onto the taper and secured with the black bolt previously pictured.

I took the "secondary cover" (the one that was holding the armature from coming out due to a lip that was shown in a previous pict) and installed the 4 nuts and bolts to secure it.

I took the stator and slid that down into place, installed the generators' aluminum "end cap", and secured it with 4 long bolts, and installed the black exterior cover. I put the rest of it together (wires, etc) and started the gen for a few minutes before it began to rain. So, with a few paper towels under it, I will see if my efforts succeeded if no spots. Then, will run until hot and again, look for leaks. After that, clean the rest of the engine and be done with it. (PICTS TO FOLLOW)...
 

Attachments

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deadshort

New member
Well,

Observed tin pan I placed under generator after I finished last night due to rain, and saw no oil....

Ran it today for about 15 min with light load and shut down and so far, no leaks...If no oil on tin pan tomorrow, I will deem this a success....

I do hear a "tin" rattle of sorts (sounds more like a loose light spring against aluminum) coming from the pull-start recoil unit area. Suspect something came loose when I was rotating armature (in each direction) while I had gen vertical.

Finished clean up on rest of engine and unit except for a small section underside.
 
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