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Twin City 17-28

Pat Bayer

Registered
Here's a 17-28 that we have been working on, After hunting parts for a year and a half we are working on putting it back together, I don't have the throttle linkage that goes from the throttle valve to the handle at the operators station, wondering if someone could post a couple pictures of what that should look like, also here are some pictures of a Twin City MTA that I just got and working on
 

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Tony Thompson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/18/2019
Pat,
In the first photo you posted I see the foot long piece of adjustable linkage hanging there. It is hooked to a throttle plate in a short removable cast housing.
Unbolt that short housing and turn it around so the throttle hookup is close to the engine block. The short adjustable linkage you have there will then go from that throttle plate downward to the governor arm.
Throttle handle under the steering wheel has a long mild steel rod reaching from there to the carburetor that passes through a couple of small holes in the fuel tank saddle/support.
Good luck on your project!
Show us some more when you get more done!
Thanks for posting your interesting resto efforts,
Tony
 

Pat Bayer

Registered
Thanks Tony, :wave: I'm a little far along to start posting this project, but I'm new to this forum, Here are some pictures of an oil sump screen that I ordered out from MSC industrial supply, I tried making my own, but my torch is to big:rant: and it was hard to keep the solder in a straight line and I had solder going everywhere, This filter fit perfect, but I had to use a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer, but shouldn't be too noticable
 

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Tony Thompson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/18/2019
Pat,
That filter you found should work just fine.
One word of caution if you dont mind... the originals were brass screen that merely stopped the "big chunks".
The modern version you have is a much more effective filter that will stop much smaller particles and could be prone to plugging up sooner than a basic screen would.
Depending on how clean your engine is inside, you may want to plan on cleaning or replacing that filter somewhere along the way :shrug:
Thanks for posting, that filter may work well for other folks that can't make their own!
Tony
 

Pat Bayer

Registered
The screens were available in a 60 mesh and a 100 mesh, this one is a 60 mesh, I think it will work, I can see where the finer mesh may be a problem letting oil through, I hope it works,
 

Ken Majeski

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/10/2019
If you've had the Oil Pump apart Don't forget to Prime it Before you start the tractor.... Would be a good idea to prime it anyway even if you haven't.
 

Tony Thompson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/18/2019
Ken brings up a good point,
ALWAYS check your oil pressure gauge right after start up!
Every once in a while :O you never know when :uhoh:
baby and big twin cams will lose oil pressure while they sit in storeage :confused:
There are two plugs on top of the external oil pump. One has a large slotted screw head under it that you turn in or out to increase or decrease oil pressure...dont exceed 20lbs. on the gauge. The other plug allows you to pour oil into the pump housing and gears. Fill it up, turn engine just a bit to burp it and top off with oil and you are primed.
Look forward to more pictures, good luck!
Tony
 

Bryan Donaldson

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2016
Thanks for all the updates on your 17-28.

Excellent point by Ken and Tony about the oil pump -- after we restored my 12-20, I had to prime it every time it was started for at least a season or two. Once primed it always had good and steady pressure but we couldn't get it to stay primed between runs. Then one day it kept the prime, the pressure came up like it should a second or two after starting, and I haven't had to re-prime it a single time in the 15 years since. But the oil pressure is the first thing I check on any of my tractors if they are cooperative enough to start.

Also make sure the rocker oil cups are filled before starting.

You'll enjoy it once it's running! They're a great tractor.
 

Ben Zimmerer

Registered
Can't wait to see it run. If I get the mag timed on the 17-30 then we go plow. I found out why it would not start. The rotor is timed right but the points are not sparking at the right time. I don't know how to adjust the points.
 

Pat Bayer

Registered
:wave: I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on what brand of oil pressure guage to get, I was thinking about a Stewart Warner, also as things come together I am going to need a fan belt, wondering where to get one?:shrug: I have some plug wires being made up by Brillman, I was wondering if they should be clamped to the fron side of the gas tank cradle:shrug:


Just a little history of the tractor. My brother was working for a local wheat harvest crew that travels the midwest harvesting. Any ways they where rained out one day close to Great Falls, Montana, and my brother was hanging out with one of the farmers, he was hiking down a canyon and saw the 17-28 on the top edge, seeing it thinking its just another McCormick Deering, but as he got a little closer he saw it was a Twin City, next thing he is calling me back in Texas askin if I ever seen a Twin City, Anyways neither of us never really paid attention to Twin Citys, not any around here. My brother talked to the farmer who didn't know it was ever there, then the farmer called the property owner who has owned the property for 40 years and he didn't even no it was there. My brother was up there with an empty trailor :D and the owner said he would sell it, and now it is here in Texas. Now we have expanded our Twin City collection getting an MTA. I really appreciate all the help and information everone has.
 

Pat Bayer

Registered
:wave: Here are some pictures of a Wallis 20-30, that I just bought, its setting in Nebraska, the guy I bought it from also has a 17-28 Twin City and a 18-36 Hart Parr for sale, I think I may try to get the 17-28, Its a bit rough though, I was wondering why it has a different air cleaner and intake sytem, Is this correct.
 

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Phil Johnson

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
My first Twin City, A '29 17-28 had that same air cleaner. The 17-28 in the pic looks like it has the later, straight front axle, as mine had.

That looks like a decent 15-30 McDeering in the background. Appears to have it's original manifolding intact.
 

Tony Thompson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/18/2019
Pat,
In answer to your last two posts,
I dont think the brand name of gauge is important. An auotomotive type gauge that reads up to 80 or 100lbs really looks bad on an early steel wheel tractor and it is even worse if the gauge is luminous.
Stiener or Value Built should stock a no-name-cheapy gauge that only reads up to 30lbs. I have used more than a dozen of them over the years with no problems.

Welters MM Farm supply in Verona, Mo. may have a belt? try them at 417-498-6496.
I have used bulk belting from Fleet Farm type stores. Cut it to length and if no one in your area has a belt lacer just go to canvas/awning facility and have them sew the ends together for you.

Many times the wire sets are fixed to the tank support.

Neat story about getting your tractor home!

You asked about intake system on another tractor....
Several collectors joke that no two are the same.... They are not so far off with that comment :rolleyes: TC 17-28 had an on-going manifold evoloution that resulted in many different configurations on the intake and exhaust sides. This can be very frustrating for resto efforts. Much of the "mysterious manifold" issue is various forms of crossover and intake heating. You dont need most of this equipment to have a good runner. If you have an intake with carb and air cleaner on the right and a basic exhaust on the left with no crossover, you are doing just fine!

Cool pictures of neat stuff you found "out in the wild"
Get us some serial numbers off your TC's so we can see what years they are,
Thanks for posting,
Tony
 

ajs2744TC

Registered
I agree with Tony on the intake systems...As for the front axle I see this a lot. I am sure the newer axle held up as a good replacement for the old style. T
 

Pat Bayer

Registered
We got the 17-28 running. The oil pressure is good, about 20 psi, still lacking a lot of little things, about 2 weeks ago i pulled the radiator apart to reseal the tanks, unfortunately the radiator core which appeared really good, had been cracked on the top and bottom flange, got a new core now, yesterday I spent most of the day soldering holes on the gas thank, now I am waiting on a gas tank sealer kit. I had it running with a gas tank I built out of a wd-40 can, and was able to back it out of the stop and turn it around.
 
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