• If you like what you see here and your interests are compatible with our 30,000 other users, Welcome. Fill out the registration form with your interests, your real name (seen only by moderators) and your city, state or country. Be certain that you have spelled your email address correctly! Your account is then manually checked and approved.

Vaughan E Type Walk Behind Crawler

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Picture #5 again. :salute:
Yes, a small drip oiler goes here to provide lubrication to the bearing here for the magneto drive gear.


Pictures of the control levers:


The clutch fulcrum... I'll look at the parts tractors I have and see if I have one when I get home.


Another shot showing how all the lever attachment at the transmission.
 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
One recommendation I'll would highly encourage, take the float out of that carb and seal it. Moden fuels break them down. I coat all of my cork floats with Red Kote. I dip and hang them, letting them dry, then repeat again. Haven't had a float failure since...





 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
The missing oiler is a drip oiler like this: (which with an 1/8" to 1/4" pipe bushing to adpat it would work well)
BestTong 1/8" PT Thread Needle Vavle Type Oil Cup Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oilers 90mL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MZR7XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PkbQBbZK9ZEVE

Pictures of the throttle lever, something similar could be made up for your tractor. Wish I had a spare to send you.




I also looked for an extra clutch fulcrum, unfortunately neither parts tractor has one as they are aborted "ride on" conversions started by someon else
 

Tonyswalkalong

Registered
All excellent information bigGURN. It looks like I have most of the levers at least.
I believe I can fab up a throttle lever and a mount for the clutch lever.
The bar that you are calling a clutch fulcrum has to be very simple.
Here I took a picture of a sketch that maybe what I imagine to be a bar with
3 holes in it. If it's true maybe when you have time, measure the length, width, thickness and hole centers.
Things are starting to make sense.
Thanks
Tony
 

Attachments

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Here are pictures, with measurements from the fulcrum from one of my tractors.






 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
It could be made by welding two pieces of 1/2" flat bar together to make the offset, one of my tractors has a replacement that was built in that method, unfortunately its in the back of the barn, behind 15 other tractors or I'd grab a picture. :(
 

Tonyswalkalong

Registered
Ha no problem. I still have lots of things to do. My friend is retired so he like to
do stuff like this. He can make it out of one piece.
I'm also thinking of having the clutch lever mount laser cut to look like the original.

Tony
 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Tony, that looks amazing! The dimmensions look good, though the smaller hole is 3/8" on my tractors. Can't wait to see the finished product!
 

Tonyswalkalong

Registered
I'm getting closer to trying to start this E tractor. At what timing degree does the engine run? I'm guessing retarded a bit but not sure. The only way I have to try to get it to fire is with the hand crank.
Thanks
Tony
 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Tony,

you're correct, they are timed to fire just before top dead center, somewhere around 5° - 10° btc, a little earlier if you want an easy starting tractor (just remember it'll reduce the power output). I have one tractor that has a mark for ignition (a chisel mark) that someone previously placed, not sure if it was factory or by an owner.

Starting with the crank is pretty easy. Make sure to prime the cylinder with fuel via the priming cup on the side of the cylinder. Rotate the engine around until you get compression, then pull up quickly. If everything is right, it should still start with a couple of pulls like that.

Pretty exciting! Nothing like hearing the sound of that engine as it pops!

I'm looking around for a drip oiler for your tractor, if I can find one, I'll send it up with the fuel and water tanks.

Good luck!
 

Junkologist

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/28/2019
Tony,

you're correct, they are timed to fire just before top dead center, somewhere around 5° - 10° btc, a little earlier if you want an easy starting tractor
I believe you meant to say “later” instead of “earlier”. Earlier would definitely make it harder to start and more prone to kicking back, which would be dangerous.
 

Tonyswalkalong

Registered
Ok Later as RETARDED. Much appreciated. I'm going to post up the start up when it happens. And thanks for the oiler. I'll be using that soon.

Tony
 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Yes sir, slightly retarded will make it start easier, usually I start with timing on any of the tractors at around 5°. Usually, you can make slight (3-5°) of change at the magneto if needed.
 

Tonyswalkalong

Registered
I got everything setup to try a start and no go. After 1-1/2 I opened the back of the magneto and noticed the spring advance gizmo is advancing the magneto to early. When I turn the engine by hand slowly, I can see the spring advance will rotate the magneto at a faster rpm. As soon as the spring advances the magneto, soon after the points open but too late. The fast rotating cam slows back to normal rpm then the points open and I get no spark. I only get a spark when I rotate the engine at a fast rpm speed. Could the spring advance mechanism be set improperly? Even at this rpm I get no ignition in the chamber. It also looks like the spark is weak so maybe the plug is bad. What do you think bigGurn?
Thanks
Tony
 

bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
I'll go over my complete "check list" that I go through with every engine/magneto I work on. Some may not be applicable, but I always start and do the same things, in the same order as then I know I've covered all my bases.

Couple things to start with:
1) Even if its not timed correctly, it should still have strong spark. I would recommend checking spark with another plug (any plug will work).
2) If no spark with a new plug, check that the plug wire is good.
3) Check the points are they clean and gapped correctly (.015-.025).
4) if points are good, check the condenser (pull it and find one that'll fit at the auto parts store).

If these steps do not fox it, you'll need to check the magnets in the magneto, which might mean locating another mag, sending it out for rebuild, or finding someone local who can charge them (check with EDGE-TA branch 15).

Week spark at slow rpm usually indicates a bad comdensor or magnets in need of a recharge. But, always start simple with the plug.

Once you have spark, I set the timing on these impulse magnetos in the flowing manner (the sprung plate that "snaps" is the impulse, it helps in starting as at slow speed it actually retards the ignition for you. Once running at full rpm, they click fast enough that there is no "catching" due to the weight of the impulse trip arm keeping it "latched" out)

to set timing:
1) Mark the flywheel at top dead center (mark or paint, chalk rubs off) with a corresponding mark on the block.
2) Then figure the degrees of advance you want to start with and make a 2nd mark on the flywheel.
3) At this point you can turn the magento by hand (free from the engine) and establish a panic point on the magento drive where the spark happens, mark the drive and the body.
4)Now you can mount the magneto to the tractor. When mounting make sure the timing mark for advance is aligned with the mark on the engine block and that your magneto marks are aligned.
5) Now you can slowly rotate the engine, making sure the soark is happening where you want it to, based off the timing marks on the flywheel. For minor timing adjustments, the points plate of the magento usually has some adjustment. Make sure to mark the plate and body of the magento to provide a starting reference.
6)For larger timing changes, loosen the drive coupler and make changes there. I would once again recommend that you mark the two halves of the coupler so you can keep track of your changes.
7)Once it'll hit or run, you can make further timing changes as needed to make the tractor run optimally.

Sorry. long winded, but thats my process, established over many years and many, many engines. So far, it's never failed me... yet! Haha. Let me know what I can do to help.
 

Top