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What do these mags fit?


I picked these mags up at a swap meet yesterday, but I'm not 100% sure what they would go on. I've seen similar FMJ mags on Allis Chalmers tractor, but not sure if those are base or flange mount. This one is base mount with #J4A3.

The other is a Remy Electric Co. 4 cylinder mag, model 32. I'm guessing it is a tractor mag as well, but can't remember ever seeing one before buying this one.

The Remy has a decent magnetic pull if I bring a screwdriver near the magnets, but if I touch a terminal screw and spin it, I don't even get a tickle. The FMJ and Wico X I know is for a 4 cylinder Wisconsin both give me a tickle if I touch the coil terminal and spin them but produce no spark. I'm guessing those are as simple as a new condensor and points cleaning. Any help identifying what the mags go to is very appreciated. Thanks!



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The J4A3 is Allis. J = mag series, 4 = number of cylinders, A = base mount, 3 = customer(Allis). No idea on the Remy. A lot of the older mags were not specific to a piece of equipment, just the mount style/direction of rotation, lag angle, and drive type.


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I believe the Remy is a low tension and was made to be used with a separate master high tension buzz coil.

Andrew Mackey

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On the Remy coil, look under the magnets or behind the mag (drive end), and see if there is a porcelean button with a brass contact on it. If there is, that is where the high tension comes out, and the power wire goes to the front center to distribute the spark to the cylinders. If none, have a look under the cap, to see if the carbon contactors or the rotor are in place. if damaged or missing, you won't feel spark. You have to remove the small cap first and remove the rotor, then you can gat the large cap off. Be careful removing the large cap. there may be a long section that extends to the rear of the mag, with a carbon contactor in it. The contactor will be the size of a pencil eraser


I did remove the cap with the 4 screws that distributes spark to each cylinder and the carbon brush seems to be very well intact. There is a relatively clean brass contact surface on the back of the cap for each screw. I'm going to slowly and carefully remove more pieces to see what kind of condition the rest of the internal pieces are in.