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Wisconsin AGND on Ditch Witch trencher M422

threecs

Registered
Hi,

I have a Ditch Witch with the AGND engine (1964). I have rebuilt the engine and it is running the machine. The problem is there is a gear box, with a clutch lever on the engine. Ditch Witch tells me this came from Wisconsin but it is not part of the engine manual I have. The clutch lever will move enough to operate the equipment, drive and dig. But the lever will not stay in the operating position. I need to hold pressure on it to make it work. It should lock into position for either running or idling.

Any help?

Thanks,
Greg
 

K-Tron

Registered
Hi Greg,
What is the model of your twin disc gear reduction clutch?
It should read something like WW-64-E.
My Wisconsin manual covers just about all of the Twin Disc gear reduction, centrifugal and PTO clutches that they used

Usually you just remove the 4 bolt cover, and adjust the steel ring inside with two socket-head or flat-head set screws. I believe that you need to turn the ring clockwise to tighten, and clockwise to loosen. It sounds like you need to turn yours clockwise half a turn until the lever snaps into position. Here are some pictures of my WW-25 that I rebuilt and adjusted a year or so ago,



Chris
 

threecs

Registered
Guys,

Thank you all for the replies. I have to go back and look at the machine to see if I can find the adjustment. It looks different from both the manual and the pics you shared, but I may be able to get by with this. I will also check the model number and provide an update.
 

threecs

Registered
Any help guys? I see no adjustment under the access cover. Very strange as the information on your engines is pretty clear. Looking under this cover has me wondering if pieces are missing. There are no scraps in the case.
 

Phil P

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/24/2013
Hi

Your clutch is different than the one pictured above.

Look in the hole in the housing between the reduction gear and the engine. Turn the engine slowly until you see a screw head in the hole. This screw holds a lock plate that locks the adjusting ring. Loosen the screw just enough to make the lock plate loose. Then turn the engine a little bit so the screw and plate are just below the hole. You will then be able to stick a screwdriver in and adjust the clutch about the same way you adjust drum type brakes. Turn the ring about ¼ turn. If the clutch handle gets easer to move you are going in the wrong direction. When you have the adjustment correct the handle will lock over center with a reasonable amount of effort.

Phil P

PM me if you like and I will give you my phone number.
 

K-Tron

Registered
I do not see any SD-125-A numbers in my Wisconsin manual. This is a scan of a WW-79, which looks similar to what you have.






I would start out by adjusting the drive/driven plate carrier behind call out # "527". That is the same point of adjustment for all over center and gear reduction Wisconsin/Twin Disc clutches. The adjustment takes place behind the bronze collar in your first picture. Moving the clutch engagement lever should give you some access towards the set screws which adjust the clutch,

Chris
 

Phil P

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/24/2013
Hi

That’s the Rockford clutch he has on the ditch witch.

The Twin Disk clutch was provided by Wisconsin on some engines but the Rockford clutch pictured above was provided on the majority of the engines.

Phil P
 

Phil P

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/24/2013
Hi

Here is a picture of the parts break down for the Rockford clutch.

The screw I am talking about is item 3 the lock plate is item 2 the adjusting ring with the serrated edge is item 27.

Tighten ring #27 will correct the problem with the clutch disengaging from the weight of the handle.

Phil P
 

Attachments

threecs

Registered
This very helpful info. Phil, I think you nailed it. I found the access holes are actually on the top. You can see in my picture one cap is removed on the side next to the access cover. But the screw and plate are accessed from two adjacent plugs on top. I just have them removed and will try to adjust the clutch.

I am very thankful, gentlemen.

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 PM ----------

Success!! My ditch witch is now "hands free".
 

mel9939

Registered
This very helpful info. Phil, I think you nailed it. I found the access holes are actually on the top. You can see in my picture one cap is removed on the side next to the access cover. But the screw and plate are accessed from two adjacent plugs on top. I just have them removed and will try to adjust the clutch.

I am very thankful, gentlemen.

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 PM ----------

Success!! My ditch witch is now "hands free".
HI GUYS! I need some help I baught this trencher and it's in bad shape, I need a crank and rod, and the clutches for the master clutch or specs for thickness of the drive, and driven plates does anyone know if there is fiber on these plates mine are all steel no signs of fiber THANKS MEL!
 

edward moller

Registered
HI GUYS! I need some help I baught this trencher and it's in bad shape, I need a crank and rod, and the clutches for the master clutch or specs for thickness of the drive, and driven plates does anyone know if there is fiber on these plates mine are all steel no signs of fiber THANKS MEL!
can you post a picture od the clutch plates. also the output end of the cranksaft.
 

CharlieHasaHarley

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/30/2019
Guess Im not the only one thats having trouble with the clutch on a 1978 Ditch Witch AGND m 422. My problem is how to take the clutch off/out so I can look at the clutch plates and to take the inner pto case off to look at the inner seal. Since Im going thru the pto The machine has been setting out in the weather dont know for how long and to make the AGND lighter to get the oil pan off engine. I got the Ditch Witch AGND m 422 to restore. My machine is in rough shape to. The pto had some water inside of pto. This 1978 Ditch Witch AGND m 422 pto is nothing like my 1967 Ditch Witch AGND m 422 pto. Meaning the shape of the pto and how to adjust the clutch. My 1967 has a set screw that locks the threaded collar to adjust the clutch - my 1978 dont have a set screw and threaded collar. Im kinda of lost now. Plus my 1978 pto dont have any tag on pto like my 1967 pto has the tag. I did get the case split. Posted the pics of the inside of my 1978 pto case(s)
Any help would be great.

Charlie
 

Attachments

CharlieHasaHarley

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/30/2019
Hi Greg,
What is the model of your twin disc gear reduction clutch?
It should read something like WW-64-E.
My Wisconsin manual covers just about all of the Twin Disc gear reduction, centrifugal and PTO clutches that they used

Usually you just remove the 4 bolt cover, and adjust the steel ring inside with two socket-head or flat-head set screws. I believe that you need to turn the ring clockwise to tighten, and clockwise to loosen. It sounds like you need to turn yours clockwise half a turn until the lever snaps into position. Here are some pictures of my WW-25 that I rebuilt and adjusted a year or so ago,



Chris
Hi Chris
Im working on a Ditch Witch m422 with this style of clutch that wont disengage even when the handle is snapped out but is still engaged
My question is how to get the clutch discs out to look at the clutches
here are pcs of what Im dealing with
Any help would be GREAT
Charlie
 

Attachments

K-Tron

Registered
Charlie,
I do not have any direct experience with the clutch on an M422. I can see the copper driven and drive plates in your clutch. The rear most driven plate looks like it is out of position. The plates should be smooth and parallel to one another. The twin disc over center clutches I have worked on had the copper driven plates and the 'hardened?' steel drive plates with the fluted grooves in them one after another in alternating sequence. The plates should all be relatively smooth. If they are really rough, try lapping them gently on a surface plate. There should be a bronze throw out sleeve with a threaded adjusting ring somewhere. The adjustment ring is where you can take out the slop in the clutch plates. Ed Moller most likely has more experience with this style clutch that I do. You should try reaching out to him.

Chris
 
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