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Wisconsin Engine AH

Jim Gorter

Registered
:salute: I need to find some info on Wisconsin AH engine. need valve clearance oil capacity and torque values. Source for various gaskets would be helpful also. Thanks, Jim.
 

s100

Registered
Re: Wisconsin engine AH.

Valve clearance is .008" to .010". Manual does not specify hot or cold. I'd adjust them hot. Similarly it does not call out different clearances for intake or exhaust. But the slightly later AHH calls for .008" intake and .016" exhaust. Manual says these are measured cold.I'll let you decide.

Oil capacity is 2 1/4 quarts.Or if you are like me and hate measuring things, fill the sump until it is full and call it good.

Manual for this engine does not specify torques. I suggest you use the torques specified in the AHH manual as a guide. There is no torque table, the values are buried in the repair text.

There are suppliers who advertise on this site who should be able to help you with gaskets.

If your browser allows you to do so, how about a few pictures of the old beast?
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
s100, Thanks for the reply and the info. I will try to get my IT guy (son) to help me post some pictures.
This engine was for sale on the ad section. I just happened to be in the area when it came up for sale.
The engine is loose, has some compression, and is complete except for a crank to start and info plate on shroud. It had a paper or leather flat belt pulley. now only the inner housing is left. Looks to have been painted orange long ago. Fuel tank is clean and still has the glass sediment bowl.
My plan is to belt it to a 3 cylinder Hardie spray pump for demo purpose at shows.
It would seem this is the earlier version of the AHH engine, as it has the same bore and stroke. Jim.:salute:
 

Zira

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/24/2019
If your engine is original, it uses a different size crank handle than the later crank start Wisconsins. I can dig one out & post sizes & dimensions if needed. I also have a scanned manual if you need it.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Thanks, Is the difference in the crank the length of the drive tube? I see some on ebay with long nose or short nose. or is the ID different?
This engine has an expanded metal Cage around the vane to protect it. I can hear a little hissing from the exhaust when it comes up on compression.
I would like to have an owners manual that is specifically for this model, just in case some adjustments are different from the AHH version.
Rock Creek has valves, rings and gaskets so that part will be covered. Thanks for the offer on the manual, Jim.:salute:
 

Zira

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/24/2019
Jim, got your PM & tried to reply, but it says you are not receiving messages. Looks like you already got a manual.

I will have to get a crank out & measure it, I will get you the dimensions this weekend. The normal Wisconsin handle is basically a female, that fits over a stub on the flywheel nut. The AH ones are basically a male, fit inside the hollow on the flywheel nut. Make sure that looks like what yours is, sometimes they got changed out over the years. I send pictures with the measurements.
 

Zira

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/24/2019
OK, the correct handle for the older Wisconsin engines with the air vane governor is the one on the right. The one on the left is for the more common, newer engines. There are various lengths of the handle and the "nose" but the key thing here is the diameter. Also attached are pictures of the mating parts, one on an AH and the other on a TFD.

The correct handle for your AH (assuming it was not updated at some point). has an outside diameter of 1-1/4" and an inside diameter of about 19/32",
 

Attachments

Jim Gorter

Registered
Zira, Thanks for the info on the AH. I will check my settings to see why I cant receive emails, definitely low usage.
Also, thanks for the pictures of the starting cranks. My engine looks more like the modern version with the cross pin thru the crank, but set back in the shroud. I will check the dimensions and see which crank will be needed. Tim at Rock Creek says he has the gaskets and valves and rings, if needed. Jim.

---------- Post added at 02:16:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17:14 PM ----------

OK, I went out to the shop and looked at the flywheel shaft. It is like the middle photo with the pin on the internal hole of the casting.:bonk: Appears to have two cast tabs on the outside which I think is for a wrench to unthread the adapter to remove the flywheel
My engine is missing the ID plate on the shroud. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement tag and is the serial number stamped anywhere else on the engine block? Trying to get a date of manufacture.Thanks, Jim.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
I have found a crank on Ebay part no UA-22. And another crank UA-27A. will these cranks fit my AH crank adapter? Thanks, Jim.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Well I never heard back from the seller on the crank, so I built one.
Drained the oil and refilled. pulled the spark plug, cleaned and regapped. Weak to no spark on impulse. So I cleaned the points and now have a nice fat blue spark on impulse. Ran some fresh gas thru the tank and cleaned sediment bowl. Gas leaking out carb inlet so stuck needle valve. Carb will need a cleaning after sitting so long. Acetone removed the gum in the tank bottom and glass bowl.
I need a picture of the throttle control linkage as this engine just has the rod between the vane arm and the throttle shaft on the carb. I think it was some kind of adjustable spring, but would like to see some OEM setups to try to copy. Maybe it was like the lever and chain setup on the AEN engines.:shrug:
Thanks for the help, Jim.
 

Zira

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/24/2019
One AE I have came with a home made crank fashioned from a socket and a brace (as in, brace and bit). It actually works ok.

Here are some poor pictures showing the governor linkage. The air vane works against the spring, and the rod that goes through the shroud adjusts the tension on the spring to change the speed. Some of mine just have a nut on the end of the rod that you use to set a fixed speed. This one is set up for variable speed. The end of the rod where the spring attaches was rusted off, hence the odd-looking piece for the spring to hook to.
 

Attachments

Jim Gorter

Registered
Zira, Thanks for the pictures of the throttle control. Does the knob and shaft turn and "lock" to keep the throttle tension in one position or just a clearance to hold the set position? Thanks again for the help. Jim.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Thanks for all the help so far. Next on the list is to find a flatbelt pulley to fit the output shaft. I measured 1.431 inch. So , 1 7/16 should be close.
I have found some paper pulleys on ebay but none with the correct bore size. Is it possible to get an oversized bore and fit a sleeve in between to make up the difference? It won't have a heavy load, but I want the pulley to run true and not slip due to wobble. Any suggestions are appreciated. Jim.
 

Zira

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/24/2019
You can certainly do that, any decent machinist can make it up for you. Unless you have a friend though, it may be a little pricey.

What size pulley are you looking for? I have a couple cast pulleys that came off Wisconsin AHH hay boiler engines that might fit that shaft.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Thanks for the offer. Looking for 4 to 6 inch diam and 4 inch width with a 3/8 inch keyway. I have some flexibility on the size. Let me know what you have and what its worth and we can work out a deal. Thanks again, Jim.
 
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